Friday, March 1, 2019

Surviving Arab Hospitality :)


How to Survive Arab Hospitality


This is a short, informative guide for anyone fortunate enough to find themselves in the clutches of Arab Hospitality. I should note, before I begin, that there is no group of people on the earth who understand the concept of hospitality as thoroughly as do Arabs. If there is a hospitality gene, they all have it. If you are a control freak, are on a diet, or plan a quick escape from the engagement, run for your life when invited out by and Arab. I have fought the hospitality wars, gleefully losing most, for nigh on 30+ years now. If you do find yourself in the perilous but fortunate position of accepting hospitality from an Arab, here is some advice:

1.       Check Wars – The greatest folly of all, is thinking that you will be able out duel and Arab for a dinner check! Like most nearly impossible tasks, it is best to take an indirect route to the problem. Tackling it head on will invoke a level of histrionics you will not be prepared for. My suggestion is simple: Find out early where you are going to eat, take an independent trip to the restaurant several hours before, give your credit card to the appropriate person, and make sure they fear you more than any protests that may follow later.

2.     Coffee – If you are invited just for coffee, it still may be a prolonged engagement. Usually, coffee means more than one kind of coffee (Arab/Turkish then American, then sometimes more Arab/Turkish later), water, juice, your own plate of fruit with a knife, then dessert. Two hours is a conservative estimate if you are planning the rest of your evening elsewhere, and you are highly skilled.

3.      The One-Quarter Rule – I should mention before I continue, that you will eat more than you expect to eat, no matter what happens. I do have some advice about tempo and distribution though. Often, you will get a big plate of food with several other small bowls of yogurt, sauces, olives and pickles, etc. If the mountain of food you are initially presented will be enough (or more than enough), then be careful how you manage your meal. I like to observe the ¼ rule, although you might even want to adhere to a ½ rule until you become more savvy. It is pretty simple really – as you eat your food, do not focus on one item and diminish it too greatly. This is a red flag for your host and the entire vessel and/or space will be immediately refilled. There is an honest logic here: you must really love that item, therefore you need more. You should also slow way down, distract your hosts as much as possible from your plate(s), and eat your food evenly. Starting to grunt or grown appreciatively about half-way through is the beginning of a good exit plan. You can tell your hosts how wonderful EVERYTHING is, but if you single out an item, it will be replenished, even if you still possess a great deal of the original portion. Patience, platitudes, and a bit of subterfuge can help you win the day.

4.     Direct Eye Contact – This is a cousin of #3. When you are eating, keep a close eye on everyone within three feet of you (this is the “we will put food on your plate at any moment” radius). Try to keep constant eye contact with these folks. When you see them looking at your plate searching for refueling points, distract them before they start to reach for the big spoon or spatula. Once again, grunting and groaning is a good strategy at this moment; even rubbing your belly and sighing wistfully helps. If you do not keep a close eye on these guardians, you will find sporadic deposits (quite large) heaped upon your plate just as you are beginning to see daylight…………

5.      Exiting – This is the holy grail of survival skills when visiting Arab hosts. I should be clear that the experience is always wonderful, but knowing when to end it can be tricky. First of all, review #2; no matter what you are invited for, there will be multiple courses. I don’t often feel like I want to escape (other than to avoid more food sometimes), because the company is genuine and I am being honored greatly during the experience. Nevertheless, all good things must come to an end eventually. Traditional strategies don’t always work here. For instance, you may want to casually mention that you have to be somewhere at 7. There is a good chance this will be interpreted as “we really don’t need to start thinking of ending until after 7.” These engagements are a matter of fate, so you must let them run their course. There is a point, however, that you can act upon – once all the courses have been completed and you have had the last round of coffee, you can stretch, moan, compliment your host profusely and mention that you must go soon. You have to be careful with this though. Knowing when the last course has arrived can be tricky. There is a good chance there is a crew in the kitchen assiduously preparing each installment and the time between courses may vary. Usually, a coffee after dessert can be counted upon, but there will be continued offers of other things (the difference at this point is that these offers won't appear as did everything else previous until you say yes). Your hosts will absolutely never tell you it’s time to go, and they won’t mind sitting around late worldlessly bonding. At the right moment, you can control your destiny. Keep in mind also that the exit will not be quick. There will be a lot of thank you’s (them to you somehow), offers of giant care packages, and sincere good byes. I often find myself saying “this is the best meal I can remember” because it was. Every time I eat at an Arab friend’s house, the food has been unique, the company genuine and warm, and I have been treated like a guest has been treated for a thousand years (maybe more). I never dread these invitations, but I do prepare for them J

Final Words – If you get a chance to visit an Arab family for coffee or dinner, consider yourself lucky and blessed. I have never experienced such an authentic communion as I have with my Arab friends (there are no Arab strangers btw)

Saturday, February 23, 2019

Sightseeing And Maqmoura

Sightseeing And Maqmoura

This is my last full day in Jordan and I spent it travelling up north to Umm Qais. I visited Hedayah's family and was treated to full Arab hospitality. I was honored to be served Maqmoura, a local traditional food that is not served everywhere in Jordan. I must admit, I was a bit apprehensive when I heard it described (a big chicken and onion pie), but it was really good. It takes six hours to bake, and the chicken and onion are wrapped in l lots of layers of pastry dough. The outer layer is very crunchy and the middle is chewy. The onions pretty much disintegrate and leave a nice flavor. We had homemade yogurt and lots of other wonderful food. I met her sister, Jelly Bean, who has excellent English skills like her sister. I had a very good visit with their grandfather and father, two gentlemen who really treated me well. After lunch and a tour of the garden (all sorts of fruit and olive trees, as well as herbs), we drove up to the ancient ruins of Umm Qais where we could look out over the Jordan river valley up to the Golan Heights in Syria. It was a great day with great tour guides :)

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Hedeyah, her grandfather, and her father

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Maqmoura!!!!!

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We did our best

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Tea with sage from the garden

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Trees, trees, and trees

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Nice wildflowers

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Syria in the distance

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The Jordan River

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Ancient ruins

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A cool little amphitheater 

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Agriculture in the valley

Friday, February 22, 2019

Slow Day

Slow Day

I slept in today. I realized I have been running pretty hard for quite awhile now. Anyway, I am recharged and ready to wrap things up here and get back to Chicago. We are working out some details so we can plan things for June quickly. Motasem, Alaa's uncle who is the school benefactor, got into country the other day and I met him for tea. He is a good man with a good vision and a good team here at Arar. It is fun talking to him in a jumbled mix of English, Arabic, and German. We met up with Alaa and his family later in the evening and ended up at the mall for a bite to eat. One more full day tomorrow..........



 

Doing a bit of late night editing for Alaa



You want to share my Texas Chicken spicy meal? Mush Mumkin

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Motasem, Khaled, and Alaa 

Thursday, February 21, 2019

Never A Dull Moment

Never A Dull Moment

When I woke up this morning, I thought it was going to be a very slow day. I knew it was to be the last day at the school for me this trip, but I didn't count on the activity level that awaited me. Lama picked me up and surprised me with fresh coffee and homemade peanut butter cookies. The cookies were great, and evidently, I introduced them to a whole new admiring audience here in Jordan. Early in the morning, all the students assembled and presented me with flowers, cards, and chants goodbye. I was very touched at their genuine tribute. I got fist bumps from nearly all of them and a few hugs and "I love you"s to boot. A little later, I got to be a guest judge in the KG for a competition. The kids came in with their mothers and it was very nice. Kindergarten activities always seem to be a just a half a step away from chaos to me, but always fun and engaging for the kids. I love watching some of the teachers, particularly those in full niqab, while they teach. You can learn so much by just watching their body language. They are wonderful teachers. I drifted out later to play badminton and then to say goodbye to all the kids and teachers for a few months. I also got a chance to talk to Zeina and Jana for a bit before they went home. Their teachers say that they have really been working hard and really appreciate the help our B260 family has given them. I had my last meeting with Rawan, Heydyah, an Wafa to plan out more English Club activities. Lama took me back to her parents house for my first dinner of the evening. Her parents were wonderful hosts and I had the best maglouba I have had in a long time. Rawan joined us and we had a good time. Dessert was rushed but awesome, and I was then hurried back to my hotel to meet Lana and her brother and sister, Ahmed and Rana. We drove to a nice restaurant and had a great time laughing and practicing pop psychology. Sometimes, an awkward moment can be hilarious, even if you would never plan it. When Lana invited me to dinner, I swore she said she was bringing her sister and brother-in-law with her. I don't know if anyone has ever asked siblings how long they have been married to each other before, but I do know that it doesn't go over well. They were good sports though, and I was impressed by their honesty and intelligence. There is still a great premium on respect for ones elders here, and it is nice to interact openly with young people. After fourteen hours, I am back at my hotel feeling good, yet glad I get to sleep in tomorrow. This great trip keeps getting better :)

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Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Approaching The End Of This Trip

Approaching The End Of This Trip

I have hit the point where I realize how little time I have left here in Jordan on this trip. It makes me smile to realize that Arab hospitality intensifies, not wanes, towards the end of a visit. I am double booked most of this week :)  Today was a relatively quite day. Suad made the staff two gorgeous cheescakes and Zaina and Jana's mother sent along some beautiful flowers and a lot of treats!  Lana thought I am not getting enough food (she found out that I am leaving too early to catch breakfast at my hotel) so she made me a couple of delicious breakfast sandwiches. I met with the English teachers, accompanied Lama and Suad to a cake store, then returned to McDonalds to meet Rawan and her two children, Lilas and Hatim. On my way back to the hotel, I picked up two 50 cent falafel sandwiches. I have settled in for the night and am choosing not to think about the short amount of time left here. Instead, I am just enjoying the experience and building some excitement for the summer programs we have planned. Things are good.

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Rawan, Lilas, and Hatim hanging out at McDonalds


Cake Mudeera!





Krema - a really cool cake store in Irbid


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Avocado and egg sandwich - hit the spot!

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How I began my day :)

Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Another Productive Day

Another Productive Day

I am starting to get my second wind on this trip, right on time. I had a very busy day today, yet I am growing more enthused and motivated. This morning, I got to visit with several kindergarten classes and I was reminded me how gifted, talented, and patient those teachers are. The kids were energetic and excited, and I did my best to engage them. I met with the English teachers, as we usually do, and we got a lot accomplished. After school, I left with Lama's father who graciously took me tool shopping. I bought a tape measure (pink) and a level (mostly so I can make "half a bubble off jokes) for Lama who appears to be the schools handywoman. After we left the tool store, we went to their house for coffee, cake, and good conversation. Eventually, Lama and Lana showed up (collectively Lamana) and we met Alaa at a Yemeni restaurant for dinner. This was a new experience for Lamana, but they were troopers. We had a good team building dinner then journeyed off to McDonalds for a bit more conversation and treats. I am constantly amazed at the graciousness, generosity, and tolerance of my hosts here. I love this school and its mission, and the people involved are some of the finest folks I have ever met.


Hanging with the KG kids


My feeble attempt at instruction


Arar swagger


"Lamana" dove right in, albeit daintily 


We did our job


A little ice cream and coffee loosens things up


Life is good

Monday, February 18, 2019

English Club

English Club

Today, we had our first meeting of the English Club. We had fifteen or so interested students. Hydayah, Wafa, and Rawan are serving as the faculty advisors. We set out a plan to elect officers, agreed on a format, and did a few activities including the Hot Seat. It was a great start. I got a lot of other work done as well - finished a classroom observation report, submitted a Fulbright recommendation for Lama, held court with a few teachers after school, played badminton for a bit, and finished the day with a bowl of foule and a flat bread about 24 inches in diameter. It will be an early night tonight :)


Setting things up


They are up to the task


The first brave soul on the Hot Seat


Lana, a brave administrator, serving her time on the HS


A good crew!


What's good for the goose.....