Monday, October 4, 2010

"You are No One, No One Stands There"


I had to go all the way to Hebron in Palestine to find out I was no one, and exactly where no one stands.
We had travelled south from Jerusalem to Bethlehem and eventually to Hebron. Bethlehem was incredible, as I expected. The only souring note was the large concrete barrier the Israeli's were building, similar to the one that is now being constructed around the Shou'Fat refugee camp in Jerusalem to circumscribe its inhabitants. I am pretty sure there are still Israeli's chasing former Nazis around the world, I just wonder if they remember why they are chasing them.
I was excited to visit the Mosque of Abraham, the burial place of Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca, and Jacob and Leah. It was during the Eid period, and it was one of only a few days a year the site was open to Muslims, Christians, and Jews. We got into Hebron and were deposited into a desolate part of town. We learned that we were near the demarcation line between Jewish and Muslim communities. There was absolutely no one on the streets. Eventually, we found our way to the entrance of the Mosque. As expected, there was heavy security. We were not hassled at all, and once in, we were directed to the left, the entrance to the Mosque for Muslims. My friend, dressed in hijab walked up to the secured gate, and they waved her in. When I followed, the young soldier stopped me. He asked me why I was there and I told him I was a Muslim. He told me he didn't believe me. He asked if it was stamped in my passport that I was a Muslim. I sadly shook my head and waited for the inevitable. He then asked me to recite Koran. I did so and he stopped me after 20 seconds. He told me I couldn't come through the gate, but that I could walk down the hill to the barricade (at the bottom of the picture above) and enter one of the other two gates (the Jewish or Christian gate). I asked him how I could if I was a Muslim. He responded "you are not a Muslim, go down there." I asked my friend to take pictures for me and I walked down to the spot the armed soldier directed me to. By this point I was very irritated. I walked down to the barrier and was confronted by another guard who simply said "Jew or Christian?" I replied "Muslim." He looked at me quizzically and directed me back up the hill. I asked to see his supervisor. After about ten minutes, he called his superior. A few minutes later, a very serious looking soldier drove up and took the guard aside. A minute later he walked over to me and asked why I had a problem. His English was not that good, but he understood my explanation of events. He then asked me why I just didn't say I was a Christian if I wanted entrance into the holy place. I sighed and just said no. I told him my friend was in the mosque, and asked what I should do. He then replied "you are not Jew, you are not Muslim, you are not Christian, you are no one. No one stands there." He then directed me to midpoint between the gates and made stand there for 45 minutes until my friend emerged from the mosque. We were then allowed to leave.

2 comments:

  1. Unforgettable experience....This made how much people in Palestine suffer everyday!!!

    Actually, I have never been to Palestine!! I am from a small village in Hebron and I ve never been to any!!! Im not sure whether one day we will be able to visit it or not!!! Only God knows this!!!

    I do not know how do you perceive the Jewish/Israeli but let me ask you this: have you changed your opinion about them after such an experinece!!! How do you feel about being "No One"?? Im sure this is how the Jewish see us!!!

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  2. You know, even though my life hasn't been easy, I am so fortunate to be a white male in the USA. I have never been humiliated like this. I can't imagine how it would feel to face this daily - I don't think I would be very peaceful though. I have tasted Israeli hospitality too many times for me to respect it - when you demean a group of people, you do so to the detriment of your own humanity and if you don't realize it, history will remind you! But as I said, I am here and safe....I cannot do much about Palestine, but I can help in some small ways like working with UNRWA and you teachers, this is what I do to keep my humanity.

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