Saturday, October 16, 2010

A Street Named Desire


This is my favorite street on earth! It is Rainbow Street in Jebel Amman, Jordan. I have walked up and down this beautiful cobblestone street a few times are out, and the British Council classes let out. I loved it there the first time I strolled up the street three years ago.
The Jordanians have worked very hard on this street. They have replaced the brick roadway, built beautiful benches, and many new stores and cafes have opened up. Most of all, I love how you get to this place. If you come in to town from the airport, you drive down the major thoroughfare for several miles. If traffic is good, you can fly at 60 mph. You pass six very large roundabouts simply named 7th Circle, 6th Circle, etc. You pass through a variety of districts in the city and a million restaurants, half of them seemingly American franchises. Rainbow street begins as 1st Circle (the last) ends. You travel around a very small roundabout and head up a slight hill. At that point, everything changes. The road is narrow and often congested with traffic. You can walk up either side of the lane easily though.
At first sight, Rainbow Street isn't very special. There are what appear to be many small insignificant shops, and a few cafes. But as you walk up and down it a few times, you notice the people, and an environment that is unique in Jordan. It isn't fancy like other sections of the city, but it is charming. One of my favorite activities is to visit the several men's shops up and down the street. I discovered them on my second trip to the city. There was one I liked the most, probably because of the young man and his father who operated it. The old man spoke no English and chain smoked. He sat a small sewing machine all day. His son, who operated at least one other store on the block, was always very cheerful. His response to any of my concerns was "Yes, yes, yes." I imagine I bought at least six Turkish suits from them in the course of a few years.
stores, and a wonderful hardware and home supply place. I have walked past a little ice cream store,always determined that I will stop on the next trip. I never have, but I heard Brangelina did (Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie). There are new coffee shops and a would-be pizza place serving some ting called fatir. It is like a very thin pizza, almost a pastry. They stretch the dough in front of you and cover it with your favorite toppings. I loved going there for take-out, usually getting a chocolate fatir for desert. I have so many wonderful memories of that street.
I don't know if I will ever be on Rainbow Street again. I would give anything to be there now, to be strolling down the hill early in the evening. I would give anything.

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